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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.